Tuesday, June 11, 2019

Culiacan, Mexico 1975

In the winter of 1975 I rode a train south from Mexcali. The journey was slow on the sun-warped rails. Our stops included towns without names as well as bigger cities.

Hermosillo-Guaymas-Los Mochis.

I got off in Culiacan at dawn.

The coastal city lay on the Gulf of Cortez. The temperature rose with each hour. I had not come to Mexico to be here and took a bus a short distance to Teacupan, a small village on mangrove estuary. I traverse the town and bought three tacos and six beers. I found an abandoned hotel on the beach. The sheltered ruins echoed the waves crashing on the sand. I pulled out my transistor radio and listened to Mexican rock, watching the stars cross the evening sky to a destination before the dawn. After the fourth beer my eyes closed for the night and the universe tugged my soul not to the cosmos, but oblivion. It does give a good sleep.

The next day was Sunday. Families came for a break from the heat. The women cooked food, the men drank beer, the children played in the waves. They paid no mind to a lone gringo.

I went for a swim. The water was rough. I was a good swimmer. A young child was caught in a riptide. His mother screamed from shore. I was chest deep and snatched the boy from Neptune‘s grasp.

Ashore the locals toasted my heroics.

“It was nada.” Only stepped a few feet.

Not to them. I had saved a life. They invited me to eat and drink with them. I played soccer and fucked up my knee. They left at sunset. I drank my last beer and watched the sun drop into the Pacific.

Never lonely just alone.

Foto by Jocko Weyland

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