In June 2022 I traveled north by train to Dover Plains. It was my first trip out of New York since my Yulemas liver transplant. Almost everyone of the train was old. I was old too. Michael picked me up at the station. He lived on the eastern slope of the Taconic Mountains. We had arranged to meet Ro Lohan a mutual friend and her husband Kevin, who lived just over the border from Massachusetts. I was familiar with the the Connecticut side having lived in Kent back in 1986. The countryside was much the same, except the the mountains rose to the east.
The couple greeted us with warmth. We hadn’t seen each other in a long time. Their house was on a quiet lane and had been restored from absolute ruin to the simple elegance of country life. Each room highlighted by their paintings. I favored Ro’s more figurative works than her long skein through pointillist chaos. She showed me the new work painted during her recent Paris residence combining the two opposite paths to achieve something special. I was impressed and said so. Ro like most everyone couldn’t take a compliment, feeling like a traitor to the long time she spent on her former pieces.
Michael and Kevin joined us for a walk to the end of the lane, which t-boned onto a long cornfield slanting up to the Taconics. Michael said that he lived on the other side.
“There are no roads crossing these mountains. Paths, yes. Steep ones too.” Michael was as old as us. The sculptor loved hiking through the Berkshires. I wanted to attempt one this visit, but felt too weak to suggest a trek.
“And there had never has been,” explained Kevin. If you look at a map, the western end of Massachusetts it’s not a straight line.”
“It isn’t,” I asked in disbelief and swiftly checked his statement. It was true. A small line deviated from the border.
“This area was impossible to govern with the influx of criminals, runaway slaves, debt felons, and all kinds of outlaws fleeing the law. Three railroads ran through the town They even had a hotel and promoters staged an illegal bare-knuckle fight bringing in over three thousand spectators.” He pointed to the plaque on the opposite side of the road. “This had been the center of the universe on that day. At least in this neck of the woods. Massachusetts ceded over the land to Duchess County and law was distributed to the populace by New York.
There was no lawlessness in sight. Just four old people. Back at their house we went to the pool. No one had yet swam in it.
I stripped naked to show them the peace symbol scar from my operation. They were impressed and I dove headfirst in the water. Cold, but survivable. They all laughed as did I.
Painting by Ro Lohan
No comments:
Post a Comment