Bingin Bali always Overhead

Bingin Beach

1994
Eternal overhead left
The water inches deep o'er the reef.
Indian Ocean
RW next to me
A big wave coming
I
Pearl sliding down the face
into the turmoil of a close-out.
Surface
The swell thickened and monsterifized
Double over head.
I paddle for life
I make two shoulders
I almost reach the third's lip
Then
Backward o'er the falls
Buried by under a bone crusher.
Ten seconds in the washer
Twenty sensing up
Or down.
Thirty not and no more struggle.
I pull on my lease
Miraculously haul myself to the surface
Buried again
In the tumbler again
I'm breathing ocean.
Near death again.
Spit to the surface
Close to shore
Sand under my feet.
Collapse on dry beach
Dripping sea from my nose
Puking water from my lungs.

I turn to the waves.

RW shouts my name
Maddog
I had been more dead than alive
I ain't no more
I'm at Bingin Beach
Always left overhead
Always