Showing posts with label mali. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mali. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 30, 2016

The Brides of Mopti


The Niger River runs 4000 kilometers through Western Africa. Its existence was known to the Romans, although few people were aware of its source. Mungo Park explored the Mali interior finding death beyond the relative safety of Timbucktoo. It was a common end for most European seeking the shrink the expanse of 'terra incognita' on the Dark Continent.

The French came, saw, and went to Mali. They left the land of the Strong Brown God in 1960 and the nation of Mali returned to obscurity. The BBC News resurrected the world's attention to this distant land with a reportage of brothel towns along the Niger River, where thousands of Nigerian women have been enslaved in whorehouses to serve Muslim men unable to afford multiple wives.

Foreign travelers first saw this rampant sex trade in cities such as Mopti.

One traveler said, "I fired our first travel guide in a dark and dirty brothel in Mopti. The brothel was the cheaper of the two 'hotels' and served cold beer when the electricity was working, but was primitive, squalid, and full of noisy drunks."

Obviously a no star hotel.

And neither was The Hotel Bar Mali.

"A marvelous place to luxuriate in squalor. For the squeamish, it was indubitably a mirror on hell, a place where six of the seven deadly sins were practiced continually, or more accurately, continuously, since there was no significant interval in the on and off of coitus uninterreptus and other frenzied debauch."

Any town that far from sanity will attract the scum of the Earth.

Mopti, for far from heaven, so close to hell.

This photo was not from National Geographic photo shoot.

Monday, August 29, 2016

Mungo Park - Explorer

European geologists were baffled by the rivers of Africa.

They were puzzled by the sources of the Niger and Congo and even thought that the two rivers were one. Expeditions were sent out from the capitols of the empires. Mongo Park was one of those explorers. The Scot had reached the Niger in the end of the 18th Century, traveling east to Bamako before turning back to the Atlantic.

His book TRAVELS IN CENTRAL AFRICA was a huge success.

Eight years later Mungo Park struck out for Africa.

Europe wanted to solve the mystery.

It was no mystery for the inhabitants of the Niger flood plain.

The river came from one way and wen the other.

It was only a problem when the Niger overran its banks.

The the river went in all directions.

The expedition was beset by disease.

Eleven out of the thirty-nine Europeans arrived at the banks of the Niger.

They continued down the river on a modified canoe.

The men died one by one.

Park's last letter stated, "I shall set sail for the east with the fixed resolution to discover the termination of the Niger or perish in the attempt. Though all the Europeans who are with me should die, and though I were myself half dead, I would still persevere, and if I could not succeed in the object of my journey, I would at least die on the Niger."

The Africans frequently attacked the travelers.

The expedition ended at the Bussa Rapids.

The natives killed everyone.

THE STRONG BROWN GOD: THE STORY OF THE NIGER RIVER By Sanche de Gramont contains an excellent account of Mungo Park's exploration as does T C Boyle's WATER MUSIC.

The Niger still rolls to the sea.

As strong as ever.

Brown as mud.

Bamako On The Strong Brown God

Bamako is the fast-growing capitol of Mali. The word 'Bamako' means crocodile in the Bambara language and the ancient town has served as a market town since Empire of Ghana dominated the region. The city of 2 million inhabitants straddles the Niger River.

Three bridges span the wide river.

During the dry season two causeways provide other options for crossing the Strong Brown God.

My friend Alice is the ambassador in Bamako.

I hope to join her in November.

The dry season and the dry season is real in the sub-Sahara.