Showing posts with label marais. Show all posts
Showing posts with label marais. Show all posts

Saturday, April 4, 2026

Le Ville de Gris

"Paris, as everyone knows, is pre-eminently a gray city. I mention it because, in the realm of watercolor, American painters use this made-to-order gray excessively and obsessively. In France the range of grays is seemingly infinite; here the very effect of gray is lost." Henry Miller - Quiet Days In Clichy.

Counting only ten shades of gray in this purgatorial hallway, I recalled walking through the Marais on a drizzling November afternoon in 1985. Buses spewing diesel fumes to create filthy clouds hanging head high over Rue Francois Bourgeois. The facades along Rue Francis Bourgeois coated a somber Verdun gray . Even the rain was gray. Henry Miller's words crossed my mind.

"I have not counted how many. But I have seen the grays of Paris. They are without number. But when there's light, there will always be the Eternal City of Light, although richard Dailey wrote, "Paris is really clean right now - even when it was built it wasn't this clean, not all at once - today we saw a dirty church and I thought, "How nouvelle vague"

Paris, le Ville-Lumiere.

Sauf quand il ya le pluie.

ps I wish I still had that coat and hat, but even more so those years. Comme on etais jeune.

Monday, March 16, 2026

Les Tullieries 1984.

Une matin gris de printemps.

"Paris, as everyone knows, is pre-eminently a gray city. I mention it because, in the realm of watercolor, American painters use this made-to-order gray excessively and obsessively. In France the range of grays is seemingly infinite; here the very effect of gray is lost."

Henry Miller - OUIET DAYS IN CLICHY

His only quote I recall, but never in entirety.

I do remember back in the 1980s walking out of Le Hotel Des Ecoffes, a classic hotel particular to the Rue de Rivoli in the winter. Sky field gray. Faces morgue gray. My suit flannel gray. The air thick with car and bus exhaust. All diesel. Everywhere a film of gray creeping on a chilly breathe of a wind. Ah, let's not forget the damp.

Then I enter a warm cafe. Run by women. A cafe, laughter, a croissant. The perfect menage a trois.