Showing posts with label south shore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label south shore. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 21, 2026

Blows Against the Empire 2001

Early in April 2001 a task force supporting the aircraft carrier US Kitty Hawk anchored off Pattaya. Its 12,000 soldiers and sailors invaded the go-go bars of Beach Road and I avoided the chaos without taking into account my Thai girlfriend's displeasure at having to stay home night after night.

"I not leave farm to sit in house watch TV. I want to see friends."

I agreed to visit Walking Street, hoping the twenty-four year old would recognize the wisdom of my decision. Of course a had witnessed plenty of shore leaves during her two years at the Tahitian a Go-Go and enjoyed the attention of young sailors.

She sexied herself up in a pink halter-top and hot pants, then wound her long hair into a snaking braid.

"Not worry. I only love you. Not other Americans."

"What about other countries?"

"I only have you." She straddled my motorcycle with her thin arms around my chest.

"And I believe you." I drove through the diesel-belching traffic to Soi BJ.

On Walking Street teenage touts hawked sex shows to naive Chinese tourists. Toughs offered bootleg cigarettes with a keen eye for more profitable action from drunken Yanks. Legless beggars dragged broken bodies along the pavement. Cambodian illegals brandished mammoth snakes for farangs to photograph and a baby elephant competed in a chug-a-lug contest with a beer-bellied Swede to a Babel of pop songs blaring from over-sized amps. Pattaya's fun had been outlawed in every American town, which was another reason for its popularity with the US military.

Walking Street's main attraction were the go-go bars manned by bikinied dancers from the Isaan Plateau and discotheques filled with smiling girls in tight jeans and skimpy shirts.

The Thai government had benignly declared that nightlife was an example of young people having a good time, although even a blind man would have recognized the playfulness between Thai dok thongs and falangs bah as a facade for mercenary flesh transactions.

Ae and I were no different. She provided sex. I gave her money.

After her pretend orgasms she sometimes said, "Rak khun."

Love sounded good coming off her lips, but Ae had an Italian boyfriend coming in June.

He would save me from my 21st Century version of THE WORLD OF SUZIE WONG, so for now we strolled arm in arm through the Last Babylon's bedlam. When a trio of navy boys stumbled noisily from a go-go bar, Ae asked, "Why you not same sailor?"

"I'm old and they're young." Two months shy of 49, I felt 25 and acted 15.

"You not old." It was a nice thing to say, even if the mirror stopped lying years ago.

"You still not same other Americans." She tugged me to a line-up of bootleg Prada shoes on the sidewalk. "You work computer. Not drink too much. Take care of me. Other Americans cheap. One time I go to hotel to sailor. He have sex with me. Not pay. He cheap Charlie."

"Maybe he thought you were in love and wanted to do it for free." I hated these stories.

"No woman do for free. Not Thai. Not western." She tried on black platforms. With the extra four inches she could look me in the chin. "Maybe some time I make love to you for free."

I handed the salesgirl the equivalent of $8 to disprove her claim about American Cheap Charlies. We stopped at Hot Tuna, my friend's bar. Ae listened to the bargirls' gossip of who loved whom, who had left whom, and who had a broken heart, knowing one day that my name was destined to fill a slot in their conversation. Their talk accelerated into rapid-fire Thai and I listened to a young swabbie's boast about kicking Chinese butt.

"We'll knock their planes out of the sky in less than an hour and sink their ships in two."

The Chinese had bought down a Navy spy plane. The President was threatening action. It was all politics and I said, "It won't come to war."

"The gooks been begging for a whooping," A blonde sailor with a Panhandle drawled belligerently into his beer.

"We won't have a war, if our president exerts a little diplomacy."

The Commander-n-Chief's predilection for straight talk excluded soft power. "If it does come to a fight, you'll splash them, but they'll nuke the fleet."

"Then we blast 'em into the Stone Age." The Texan spilled his beer.

"And they'll wax San Francisco and LA to save face." Face was as essential to an Asian as driving a big car was to an American.

"Screw their face, we'll bomb 'em until their fortune cookies glow in the dark!" another sailor exclaimed, earning the scowls of more pacific farangs. My young countrymen were beyond caring about the opinion of Italian perverts in soccer shorts. I tried to lighten the mood. "A couple of H-bombs will start the nuclear winter, solving the global warming problem."

"None of those missiles would hit America, if we had NMD," The Texan referred to the President's grandiose Star Wars shield against North Korean, Chinese, Iranians, or Israeli missiles.

"The Commie rockets have a range of 1200 miles. They might reach the Aleutian Islands. A war with North Korea would cost about $200 billion. "About $6,000 per peasant family." This same sum would provide each American with a week's vacation at DisneyWorld. "We give them an out and they won't fight us."

"That's blackmail," the Texan snapped with a corded neck. "You serve in Vietnam?"

"No, I protested against the war."

"How? By wearing beads and smoking pot?" His friend chuckled sarcastically and the Texan added, "And he didn't inhale either."

"And we don't too." They play-acted puffing on a joint and then shunned me to watch the Muay Thai boxing in a nearby ring, but my participation in the peace movement had involved crimes against the State dating back to a warm spring day in 1965, which was a long time ago in the suburbs outside Boston.

Having returned to my split-level house from Our Lady of the Foothills, I tore off my Catholic school uniform and dressed in a tee-shirt and jeans. My mother was in the laundry room. My brothers and sisters were watching WHERE THE ACTION IS on the TV.

It was too nice a day for the lip-synching of Paul Revere and the Raiders and I went outside to chuck a hardball against the wooden backstop at the end of our driveway.

My pitches struck the splintered strike zone with a thud. I called the strikes and balls. I was pitching a no-hitter in Fenway, until Addy Manzi crossed the lawn. My teenage neighbor was sexier than a Playboy centerfold in her white shirt, blue tie, plaid skirt and white knee sox. To show off I was more than twelve year-old boy I wound up in imitation of the Red Sox's Dick Raditz, and hurled a speedball over the backstop into the yard.

"Have to work on that control," she commented and I jealously imagined her flirting with the local high school ace. As I started toward the ball, she said, "Wait a second."

Wearing a baseball glove, I couldn't stick both hands in my pockets to hide my embarrassment. "For what?"

"How about a drive?" Addy asked with a mesmerizing lilt.

My toes twisted in my Keds.

"W-w-where you want to go?"

Nowhere special? She brushed back an auburn strand with practiced poise. Just around to feel the wind through my hair.

At sixteen she existed in a perpetually cool world of teenagers, while thirteen year-old boys barely had hair on their chins. I swallowed hard. "I don't have a car."

"We can drive my mother's Tempest. She's gone out with friends. My brother is at the dentist. No one needs to know." She dangled car keys from an index finger. "Can you drive?"

My grandmother had taught me to drive in her VW Bug. It had a shift and the Tempest had a push-button transmission. It couldn't be that hard. "I guess so."

"C'mon, it'll be fun." Addy cocked her head in the direction of the car in her driveway. She had babysat for my family and taught me the Twist. I couldn't refuse her anything. "Okay."

She clapped with more enthusiasm than a teenage girl should exhibit to a grammar school boy. I was scared.

"You mind if we go someplace no one will see us?"

"Fresh." She slapped my arm and I sputtered, "I didn't mean it that way."

"I was joking."

"Oh." I threw my baseball glove into a bush and followed her across the lawn to the car.

She slipped into the Tempest and turned on the radio. WBZ was playing 98.6 by Keith. I put the car in reverse and drove to the STOP sign on Rte. 28, where Addy said, "Now turn left to Chickatawbut."

"Chickatawbut?" The road through the Blue Hills was an infamous make-out spot.

"You said quiet." She raised an eyebrow.

I stepped on the gas. The convertible sped to forty.

At Chickatawbut Road I fishtailed through the intersection.

"Sorry about that."

"Drive like you belong in the car." Addy leaned closer to the open window. The breeze bore her perfume to me. My mother also wore Lanvin. Addy lifted her eyes to the canopy of trees overhead and said, "Stop at old CCC Tower. We?re taking a little walk to the next hill."

"A missile base's on top." My hands were damp on the steering wheel.

"Not anymore. LBJ pulled out the missiles to please the Russians."

?That means Boston is unprotected from nuclear attack.? During the 1962 Cuban Missile Crisis the nuns had drilled us to duck under our desks in case of nuclear attack. We pray for peace and our eternal souls. The bombs had never come, reinforcing the sisters? faith in miracles.

"Don't worry, it's too nice a day to die." Addy's words calmed my fear and I parked the car. The other cars were empty. No couples parked here this time of day. They went into the woods and that was where Addy led me too.

We scrambled along a muddy trail. The sunlight dappled through the new leaves onto her golden skin. I grew breathless with anticipation. We mounted a hillock. Two teenagers in leather jackets waited by a chain link fence. I recognized the taller one.

Two months ago Addy had come home near dawn. Her mother had grounded her for a month and banned the car mechanic from seeing her daughter.

Little can render a teenage boy more attractive to a girl than her mother's disapproval, if you throw in a tattoo, oil-slick hair, black engineer boots, and a silvery SS-SuperSport.

"What's Dennis Halley doing here?" Half the boys in town wanted to be like him.

"Silly boy." She ran to kiss Dennis, who asked, "Who's the kid?"

"He's cool." Addy vouched for my presence. "He gave me a ride."

"Way to go, kid." Dennis patted my back.

I had done him a favor.

He pulled out a pair of wire cutters and opened a hole in the fence.

His squat friend crawled through the breach and ran over an embankment with a whoop. Addy was the next to go. She climbed to the top of the hill and Dennis turned to me. "What about it, kid?"

I had smashed pumpkins on Halloween and set fire to the woods on Easter Sunday, but was paralyzed by my mother's warning to walk the other way, if I saw trouble coming. "The sign on that fence says they punished trespassers."

Dennis lifted a rock.

"Who this belong to?"

"No one."

"And that sign?"

"The government." Running hard, my yard was only ten minutes away.

"And the government belongs to you and me and the people in Boston." He threw the rock at the sign. "So?"

"This place belongs to us." The FBI parents wouldn't appreciate his logic.

"Damn right, it does. I spent last year fighting in Nam. Shooting at strangers. Possibly killed them. There are people, who think shooting strangers is wrong and they might be right." Dennis' treasonous statement contradicted the nuns? prayers for the fall of communism. "You know any Vietnamese?"

The only Orientals on the South Shore were Chinese waiters serving Pu-Pu platters and we never spoke to them, except to make fun of their accents.

"No, I don't."

"Those VC were peasants. Same as my grandfather from Ireland. Same as you and me. So you gonna run home or come with me?"

Leaving meant leaving Addy. I hunched through the opening and raced Dennis to where his friend and Addy stood beneath a tall flagpole. The South Shore spread beneath us like a map slipping over the edge of the world into the sea. The thug with the chin beard pointed out his house near the Quarries.

"Where you live, kid?"

I focused below the hill.

"The tan house next to the greenish one."

"That's my houser the green one," declared Addy.

"That's not tan. Don't tell me you live in a pink house?"

"Shut up, Bush." Kevin Halley warned and his friend replied grumpily, "Nothing wrong with living in a pink house, kid."

"Where are the missile silos?" Addy suggestively raised an eyebrow.

Kevin took her hand.

"I'll show you."

They disappeared behind a half-buried building. Bush wandered off to explore the concrete bunker. The wind died to a whisper and the hill became an end-of-the-world movie. I was the last man on Earth and twelve years-old was nothing to a teenage girl. I threw a rock at the nearest Quonset hut. It broke a window. I smashed pane after pane.

Bush ran up to me.

"Kid, you pitch a baseball that hard, you can start for a Little League team."

"Thanks," I panted and Bush motioned with his hand. "I need your help. C'mon."

Hundreds of fire extinguishers had been stacked inside a garage. We lugged out twenty and pulled the levers. Jets of CO2 gas shrouded the hilltop and Bush declared, "It's like the planet Venus and we're two astronauts looking for space girls in bikinis."

"I like that movie." I stretched my hands into the fog without touching an extraterrestrial go-go girl. Hearing a whistle, Bush grabbed my arm. ?Kev must have found some loot."

We jogged out of the mist. Kevin and Addy stood staring down a concrete shaft. The sunlight only penetrated a couple of feet. Kevin dropped a rock into the silo. I flinched in expectation of an explosion. The stone clanged on metal.

"Missile silos. C'mon, I'll show you something fucked up."

We followed him inside a damp bunker. He stopped at a wrecked console. The electronics had been wrenched out of their brackets. "This is where the buttons were."

"The buttons to shoot the missiles," Addy whispered secretively.

"Or order more coffee." Bush joked, but Kevin directed our attention to a floor-to-ceiling glass map of the world. His finger traced a line over the red circles dotting LA, Detroit, New York, Chicago, Boston.

"Targeting cities in the USA isn't funny."

"Why would they bomb them?" A-bombs were for the commies.

"To squash any revolution out of control of the National Guard."

"That's crazy talk."Bush disagreed with a voice shadowed by doubt, for Watts had burned to the ground the previous summer.

"Crazy talk, I'll tell you crazy. I get caught for joyriding. The Quincy judge said either two years in the Marines or three years in Billerica Correctional. I was in Vietnam to fight commies. I never saw one. I shot at trees, burned villages. It ain't like the movies. Not clean. Things I saw made me sick and I got this for my troubles." Kevin lifted his shirt. A long scar had been etched across his abdomen. "Fucking war."

Kevin chucked a swivel chair through the map. I had believed in stopping communism until the heavy shards of glass continents cascaded onto the concrete floor. The transparent seas splintered into a thousand pieces.

Kevin didn't lie and we took his revenge through an orgy of vandalism. We rammed doors through walls and smashed furniture with clubs fashioned from chair legs.

After ten minutes our rampage of senseless violence was waning, so I climbed a nearby slope with the flagpole's lanyard. Addy looked at me with puzzlement, until I ran forward to let the rope carry me into space.

She shrieked with delight.

I had made her happy.

It was at this moment a police car crashed through the missile base?s front gate.

I released the rope and fell to Earth. My legs buckled and I keeled over in pain. The other three fled to the fence. Addy stopped at the hole. Her eyes swore me to silence. My wave signaled her name would die within my lips and she disappeared into the woods.

Two policemen manhandled me to the MDC cruiser. The older was Sgt. Tully. Everyone in my hometown had heard how he hated kids. He twisted my arm.

"Who were your friends?"

"They were from Southie."

"We have ways of making tough kids talk."

He shoved me into the rear seat.

His partner sat behind the wheel.

"You?ll have to pay for the broken windows."

Last week I had batted a baseball into the Manzi?s dining room. One pane cost about $1. Hundreds had been smashed on the hill.

"I only broke a few."

"Kid, you tell us names and I might go easy on you." The young driver offered with a kind voice.

Sgt. Tully shook his crew-cut head. ?No deals. Why were you destroying government property? You a commie?"

I wasn't giving up Addy.

"It was a protest against the War in Vietnam."

The driver stomped on the brakes. The cruiser came to a rubber-burning halt a hundred yards short of the Route 28 lights.

"Get out of the car."

I was dead meat and his partner smirked, "Now you'll get it, you commie faggot."

The young cop hauled me into the woods.

"Were you really protesting the War?"

"Not at first, but that's the way it turned out."

The billy club dropped at his side.

"Kid, I'm gonna let you go."

I blinked in disbelief.

"Why?"

"My brother went to serve his country and they had him driving a beer truck. A fucking beer truck. It ran over a mine and he died for 3.2 Budweiser beers. It was fucked and it's only gonna get worse. I can't say nothing about it or else___"

"Or else people think you're a commie faggot."

He slammed his billy club into a tree.

"Kid, get home before I forget you?re a kid."

I ran away to the dull thuds echoing through the woods. Kevin was right. Viet-Nam was not a John Wayne western. People died bloody deaths and if my not wanting to be any part of it made me a commie, then I was willing to join the KGB. I just didn't have to tell anyone about it.

Arriving on my street I spotted Mrs. Manzi's Tempest in the driveway. Addy's brother bicycled out to meet me. Chuckie's lower lip was numb from Novocain, as he said, "Man, my sister took the car without my mother's permission and met Kevin Hally. Man, did she catch it.?"

"She say anything about me?"

"Why would she say anything about you?" Chuckie gave me odds of one-in-a-million of ever kissing his sister. After today I stacked another bunch of zeros on top that number. "You weren't with her, were you?"

"No, I was throwing rocks at the Canyon." The less anyone knew about this afternoon the better. "I'll see you later."

Crossing the merger of our two lawns, I glanced at their house.

Addy stood at the window, a teenage Rapunzel with a ponytail. She raised a finger to her lips to indicate she hadn?t mentioned my name. She blew me a kiss. I walked on pillows to my house.

Entering the kitchen, my mother hung up the phone.

"You have anything to tell me?"

Mothers have a strange way of finding out everything, but only if you tell them. "No."

Her Medusa eyes studied me before softening to display the love deepest in her heart. She still believed whatever I said. "Then wash your hands and face before your father comes home."

I went upstairs, convinced that not telling the truth can set you free.

The next day Mother Superior called me into her office and asked me if I believed in God. I tried quelling her fear for my immortal soul by falling to the knees and saying the 'Our Father' in Latin. When I finished, the old crone blessed herself with her Rosary. "Stalin was an altar boy too. I have my eye on you."

She wasn't the only one. My classmates shunned me during recess. Chuckie and Kyla Rolla, who had been my sweetheart for the past two years, defied this silent treatment and I loved them for saying it didn't matter what anyone thought.

My protest against the War severed the ties holding me to this suburb. I accepted a scholarship to an all-boys high school ten miles away from my hometown. We attacked a nearby CIA lab during a rocket club exhibition. They had banned by cross-country team from using their fields. Only my father's intercession prevent the perpetrators? expulsion. I lost my free ride.

Chuckie knocked up Susan Fox in junior year. He married her before Christmas 1969. Kyla and I broke up before the senior prom. I still wonder why.

In May 1970 I hooked school to demonstrate against the invasion of Cambodia in Boston Commons. The government has rejected my pension claims for the years of protest. The money was unimportant, for my only goal had been peace. Now all America and the world gets is war.

After my fifth beer on Walking Street I gave Ae the keys to my motorbike. She helped me from my stool.

"Why Americans talk loud?"

"They think it makes people understand them better."

"Tam see-ahn-dang magh." Thais rarely complained about noise.

"No farangs are half as loud as your father and brother after they get a bottle of Mekong in them ___," My criticism was interrupted by the Texan sailor's bump. I clenched my fists and he raised his palms, "You weren't kidding about the war, were you?"

Informing him that a coke-addicted president concocted this conflict with China to get votes sounded like bitter grapes about the GOP stealing the election in Florida, after all Mayor Daley had robbed Nixon in 1960. I decided to play it straight.

"No, kid, it'll blow over by the end of the month."

"Thanks, sir, you had me worried. I didn't want the rest of them to know I didn't want to fight. I only joined the Navy to see the world."

"I understand completely." I had left Boston for the same reason. "And this is part of that world. Enjoy your leave."

"You have a good night, sir." He ran between two fat Germans, lifting his two fingers as a vee to the night sky. "Peace."

"Peace."

Before Ae sat on the Yamaha, I kissed her. She regarded me suspiciously, "What's that for?"

I straddled the bike, not explaining my affection.

Thais don't care much about the rest of the world and a go-go girl from the TQ bar with three kids even less, however a teenaged soldier flashing the peace sign in this century gave me hope for the future, since one peacenik will become two.

The many that follow will give us strength in numbers and in the end the balance will swing away from war. It always does in the end, because everyone is a better lover than fighter.

Man or woman.

Adam and Eve.

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Much more to come__

Sunday, April 5, 2026

Jewish Guilt versus Goyim Guilt

Back in the 1990s I deserted New York to spend the Easter holiday with my family on the South Shore of Boston.

Despite my abandonment of God as a child my mother persisted in requesting my attendance at morning Mass. It was a small sacrifice to make for the woman who brought me into this world and I always said, "Sure.”

That morning I dressed in a dark-gray suit with a black cashmere polo shirt.

My mother came into the bedroom and asked, “Where’s your tie?

“Mom, this shirt is pure cashmere.”

“But you look better in a tie?” My mother was old school.

“You can’t wear a tie with a polo shirt.” I had worn a tie every day at Our Lady of the Foothills parochial school.

My mother frowned with disappointment at both my wardrobe and rejection of her God.

“I hope at my funeral you’ll wear a tie.” Her eyes were dewy with tears.

“I will.” Refusing my mother was impossible and I changed my shirt and put on a tie. It felt like a garrote.

"Better?" I asked in the kitchen. My father sat at the table in his best suit.

"Much better.” She smiled with triumph and kissed my cheek. “You’re a good boy.”

Upon my return to New York I related this story to the mother of my diamond employer. Hilda tsked and said, “That’s the difference between Jews and goyim.”

“What?” Her son and I were befuddled by Hilda’s statement.

“Your mother simply asked for you to wear a tie at her funeral, if it had been me I would have said, “Once you kill me, I want you to wear a tie to the funeral.”

“Aha.” I replied, for Hilda had explained the true depth of Jewish guilt in a single sentence.

Matricide.

We were all bad boys, except to our mothers.

To them we were saints.

Sunday, March 1, 2026

Cross Country 1996

In August of 1996 I was on the last stage of my around-the-world ticket from Pan-Express. $1400 for NYC-London-Paris-Bangkok-then train down to Penang and a ferry over to Sumtra up to Banda Aceh and then bussed down the west coast to the volcanoes of Brastaggi to catch a Fokker prop from Medan to Bali to rendezvous with a friend.

Surfing with Richie Boy at Bingin and Kuta. The New York diamond dealer was going through a divorce. I had suggest coming to visit me in Asia. It was summer. A slow time of the year in the Diamond District. Success. A road trip around the enchanted island with a Norwegian nurse. Ooon. This helped his pain. I was the chauffeur. Our o menage-a-trois honeymoon ended at the Denpasar Airport. He kissed the nurse Selamat Jumbah. Ooon watched from the take-off from the terminal, then we went our separate ways. Oon to Ubu. Me to stay with a longlost hippie love in Semiak. Richie Boy back to New York.

A week later I caught a Garuda 747 eastward across the Pacific. No one waved Jalan Jalan, but my good friend Slim met me at LAX in her Studebaker Lark. On the way to Hollywood the native Californian told me that she had fallen in love with an artist in New York.

"That's good news, except it's 3000 miles from here."

"I know and that's why I'm driving there in two days." Slim was long-limbed and had several inches on me. Her brown hair was cut short. Working at a restaurant the ex-model hated the smell of food on her hair. Short made shampooing easy.

"In this car?" The '61 Lark was a classic with a V8 engine.

"Yes, you want to be co-pilot?"

"I have nothing keeping me in LA." I had a little over $300 in my wallet. Enough for a one-way ticket from LAX. No rush. My job selling diamonds for Richie Boy and his Manny, his father, started in a few weeks.

"Are we in a hurry?" I certainly wasn't ready to get off the traveler's paths, but the sublet on my Easts Village apartment was up and my fund were as short as Slim's hair.

"Not really. I've never driven cross country. Always flown from coast to coast."  

"Then you're in for a treat. Maybe we might make a few detours." I had a hankering to see Monument Valley in person rather than in a John Wayne movie.

"Detours?" Meg was in a hurry. She had a man waiting. I only had a job.

"Short detours."

"When was the last time you cross the country?" She didn't like the sound of detours.

"1975." America had been a different country.

"You old hippie." Slim smiled and stepped on the gas. The 289 was tuned for speed and we headed into the Malibu Hills, where her family lived under the ridgeline on the other side of the mountains slihgtly north on the Ventura Freeway.

"You got that right." And I still was a hippie in many ways. I believed in love and asked, "So what about this guy in New York? I met him out here. We connected like I've never connected with a man before. He wants me to come out to New York. He has a girlfriend."

Tricky. Whaet's he like?"

His name was Cobb. Her ennuciation of his family name explained the nuances of their status on the North Shore. His town on the water was for the very upper-class. I had lived on a dock in Gloucester Harbor for a summer. Cobb was Brahmin to my Yankee Irish. I wasn't impressed, but her description of him made Cobb sounded okay. A scupltor and metal worker. I had known her previous husband. Not a keeper.

"So you're going to New York to steal another woman's man?"

"Yes."

"Then count me in." I always had a soft spot for romance.

"I thought so. I'm having a good-bye party. We'll leave when all the beer is gone."

"Then you're behind the wheel." I liked my drink and looked forward to a late night ride on the freeway through the Valley towns viewed from the passenger seat.

"I wouldn't have it any other way." Everyone knew about my driving skills. At least she didn't call me 'Crash' like some others.

Slim and I spoke about Paris on the drive to her bungalow off Melrose. The summer of 1984 we had met at the Bains-Douches. The ex-model and I had gone back to my apartment on Ile St. Louis. We watched the Summer Olympics. Both of us tried something. Both of us had lovers. We were faithful to both of them. They weren't to us. By summer's end we were both alone.

"I'm glad nothing happened between us back then."

"Me too. I nee a friend more than an ex-lover."

"Or an ex-one-hight stand."

I was good to have a friend in Los Angeles, a city too easy to have none.

In my forties I had long come to appreciate the value of women as friends instead of lovers. Even in the City of Angels. Even with a woman in love.

The next morning I surfed with her brothers in Ventura. Joe and Pat were two of Slim's seven siblings and they had known the Pacific since they were children. Like Slim they were very tall and I called them the Malibu Watusi. The waves at Little Rincon were bigger, thicker, and colder than Bali. They were skilled bodysurfers. Not me.

"Watch out for the shore break," shouted Joe, as I ducked under the first close-out.

A wave thunked me to the sandy bottom and I crawled onto the beach, smote by the wave of Neptune's hand.

I scratched through the waves to the line-up to float like a log. I skied better than good, but I can't get it together for surfing. Something about paddling forward, standing up, and cutting down a waves was too much for my sense of equilibrium. I took off several times. Wipe-outs. The brothers didn't let me drown. After the session we drove away with the Pacific waving goodbye to two surfers and a kook..\

That evening Slim and I drove to the bon-voyage party in Hollywood at a movie star's bungalow.

The Hills above Malibu had been Slim's spiritual home since birth. Her youth too, except for the years in Hawaii and Paris and soon to be New York.

She was in a New York State.

I was in the same mood. The last leg of my global circumnavigation. 3000 miles across America. On the road with no Route 66 ahead.

Friends and family came to say good-bye. There was cases and cases of beer. I knew no one. I wanted to tell people about my adventures and mishaps in Bali and Sumatra. I held my piece. This was Slim's night. Her farewell. I was merely a passenger. I drank my fill and then some. Slim none. Well past midnight Slim swore to the gathering that she wasn't leaving forever and added, "Only a real long time."

I rose from a bench and raised my beer. "Don't worry, Slim will always be a Californian."

"Why?" asked her brother Joe.

"Because LIke LA no one born outside the five boroughs will ever be a New Yorker and I've been there almost twenty years, A New York friend met me in Bali. A surfer. "

I had lived in New York on and off since 1976. Richie Boy had said in Bali. "No matter how long you live in New York, you'll always be someone from somewhere else an even more so, since you're a Red Sox fan."

It was true. I had a Tony C teeshirt in my bag.

"I've been there over twenty years and I remain a New Englander."

My accent mixed Down East with the South Shore of Boston.

"After graduating from university in 1974 I had lived in a shack on a wooden pier jutting into Gloucester Harbor. It smelled of fish. Always. Nothing like that in New York."

"Cobb lives on the North Shore. In a cottage."

I envisioned his cottage. Twenty rooms. A tennis court and concrete swimming pool. A tall family with good teeth.

Cobb's last name. His people didn't speak to people from the South Shore, but to her friends Slim once more extolled the sculptor's virtue. Cobb once more sounded like a good guy and she loved him. I toasted her good luck.

Around 5am Slim kissed, embraced, and hugged the guests, then called her beau once more. I ha been rinking. Not Slim. I sat in the passenger seat and she got behind the wheel. THe California woman waved to friends and family. Five minutes later we were on the highway heading east.

Night traffic was sparse through the valley bright with neon streetlight, as the Interstate snaked out of the suburban heart of the Valley under the unstarry night. and I asked, "You mind if I sleep for a little?"

"Not at all." Slim turned on the radio. A Mexican station from the desert played Selena's NO ME QUEDA MAS. Slim drove the Lark at 80 on I-15 up into the mountains. They were only shadows in the night.

"I thought we weren't in a hurry."

"You really want to go slow through this?"

I couldn't see anything.

"No, I guess not. Motor away."I laid my head against the glass and closed my eyes on LA to dream about lands south of the border. I hadn't been to Matzatlan since the winter of 1975.

Near dawn we were in the desert. The sun peeking over the east. The radio played Reba McEntire's THE HEART IF A LONELY HUNTER. Like me Slim like country-western. Los Angeles had been replaced by the Mojave. Only a few cars and trucks graced the highway heasding into the Mojave, a desert in the rain shadow of the southern Sierra Nevada mountains. Them behin us now just like LA. Just like Bali.

I woke with the near dawn. Sand, brushes, and rocks surrounded I-15. The flat Mojave stretching to every horizon.

"Where are we anyway?"

"South of Victorville."

You want to take over?"

"Looks safe enough." There were only a few cars on the highway outnumbered by tractor trailer trucks. We stopped at a truck stop and filled up the Studebaker.

"Damn, I hitchhiked in 1974. My friend and I ended up in Needles. It was 117 in the shade."

"It gets like that out here."

"Then I'll step on it."

I did just that and the Lark kept pace with her desire to be in New York with Cobb.

With one hand off the wheel I studied the map and asked, "You ever been to Zion Canyon?"

"No, but I've always wanted to go."

"Nothing stopping us."

I-15 ran straight to Las Vegas. Three hours at 65mph, then avoid the Sin City. Earlier on my trip I had spent two weeks in Bangkok. I had had my fill of sin for the year. Maybe two.

We drove straight through Vegas to the Moapa Paiute Travel Plaza in Crystal and gassed up on $1.14 a gallon regular. I thought about buying firewarks. I saw the look in Slim's eyes and got us both Coca-Colas as well as ice an a cooler. Slim bought foo. Tere wasn't much ahead. We arrived in Springale, Utah afore the sunset. We went to the Zion Canyon. There was nothing like the sandstone canyon back East.

Steep cliffs climbed into the heavens. I wanted to take a hike up the trail and Slim argued for moving on. I wanted the same. This was Mormon country. One of my relatives had fought in the Utah War. As far as I headrd from my aunt, he had nothing to do with the Meadow Mountain Massacre.

"We might never come this way again."

"You're right. A small hike on the canyon floor."

"Thanks."

We entered a narrow defile. A thin stream trickled through the stones. Slim took photos with her camera. I did the same.

The warm wind washed over the the time-worn sandstone like Georgia O'Keefe creating her paintings by hand. Meg looked at her watch. I turned to leave rather than have her say we had to go.

That night we stayed on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The room had twin beds. It had been a long day and after dinner we walked out to the edge of the expanse.

"I was on the South Rim in 1972."

"A hippie?" I almost tol her the story about running into the boy who bullied me in grade school on the path up from the river. I don't know why I hadn't killed him then. I had been with Nick, who I had deserted in Berkeley later on that trip. He didn't know why I hadn't killed him either. Nick left the next year to study medicine in the Philipines, but he was from Staten Island and like people from Boston, he believed in revenge.

We started walking back to the car. I sploshed through the stream, not caring if my feet were wet. Like I was a horse with hooves.

"Yes, but I cut my hair in 1975 after some girl said my head looked like a thatched roof."

"Not an attractive look."

"You got that right."

We returned to the motel and fell fast asleep with the whisper of pine through the windows.

In the morning we continued east through the badlands and I posed of a giant stone imitating Rodin's 'The Thinker'.

"Don't show that to your beau."

"Not a chance."

We were friends, but most men hate their girlfriends' and wives' male friends.

This stretch was the home of weird rock formations.

They were everywhere.

At noon we approached the Vermillion Cliffs and stopped at a historical marker, stating that the Spanish explorer Francisco Coronado's expedition had come this way in the 1500s. García López de Cárdenas ha unertakaken the trek to see the Grand Canyon. I wondered how they found water on this sun-tortured plain. We had plenty in a cooler

"I wonder what they did for water."

"Sucked stones until they reached the Colorado."

"Only an hour behind us."

"By car. By horse or on foot three days. We could be in New York in three days."

She got back behind the wheel. I sat with the map, plotting the route.

The Lark ran smooth and the road was smoother. Slim drove faster. The speed spurred by her love for Cobb. 

I thought about her desire to be with someone. I had just circled the globe. I had seen millions of people. None of them had been for me.

"You really are in love."

Yes."

"I wish I could say the same."

One day you might be able to."

"Maybe, but for now I'm in love with the road."

The evening sky turned purple, as we arrived in Kayenta, Arizona, capitol of the Navaho nation. The windblown town looked like Mars a hundred years after a failed terra-forming experiment. Slim wanted to stop at the hotel. I said that we could get a room nearer Monument Valley.

"It'll be great to wake there in the morning."

We drove on and darkness dropped across the desert like a black stone. Not a single light in sight otehr than the stars.

"Are you sure there's room up ahead?"

"Monument Valley is a destination. The motel there has to have rooms."

I was wrong. Every room booked for the night. I telephoned every motel within fifty miles. No luck.

We returned to Kayenta for gas and food. Slim was not happy. She got out at the pump and called Cobb from a phone booth. We barely spoke during our meal at a motel diner.

"So what's the plan?"

"We sleep in the car."

"Where?"

"Out in the desert or we keep driving until we find a motel."

"I'm done driving."

"Okay." I paid for our meals.

Slim handed me the keys.

"Find us someplace."

I drove out into the valley and pulled off the road onto hard-packed sand.

"Do you think this is safe?"

"Safe as anywhere else." Even I was spooked by the high desert darkness.

"Please don't ask if I think we're the only ones out there? I'm not in the mood for a talk about ETs."

"Sure." I hadn't seen any aliens since New York.

Slim folded down the driver's seat. There was only one blanket. She wasn't sharing it with me. Without the sun the temperature dropped into the 50s.

"Thanks for this." Slim broke her silence.

"You think I wanted this? I'm coming for Asia. It's hot. There are motels everywhere. Here there's none."

"Fuck you."

She pulled up the blanket and I shivered to sleep. I woke in the middle of the night and got out of the Studebaker. I needed to pee.

Overhead a billion stars traversed the heaven. At 6000 feet high the constellations were so close. I tried to pick up severeal. There were too many stars to count and I returned to the car, happy to be alive. Slim was dead asleep. I tried to do the same, but nights were cold in the desert and I shivered to exhaustion.

The Valley was even more desolate with the dawn. I got out. Surrounded by tri-colored buttes of sanstone and shale. Slim got out and surveyed the landscape for longer than a minute.

"You were right. This is spectacular."

They had been the background of countless westerns. She breathed deeply. We were hundreds of miles away from America, in the heart of the Navaho nation. Slim smile at me and walked to the passenger's side.

"I hope you learned a lesson last night."

"Actually three. Listen to you, stop driving out here before sunset, and that it gets really cold out here at night." "You're up."

"You ready to go?"

"Yes." She was still rightfully pissed. I had been a man thinking I knew everything and that had meant no motel bed. Even I was angry at me. I started the Lark and drove through Monument Valley. Slim shot photos through the open winow. The ay was heating up. The Studebaker ha no AC. I made good time on 163. No other cars. No lights. We were both hungry. I was no longer cold.

Gigantic buttes accompanied our path to the San Juan River.

We ate breakfast at Mexican Hat.

Slim was not talkative and went to the telephone to call Cobb.

She returned with a smile.

"All good?"

"It will be," Meg explained how she was stealing Cobb away from a wicked girlfriend.

"My money's on you."

"Then start driving like you were in love."

"Yes, M'am."

I hit 100 on 191 and we joined 161 and headed east towards the Rockies. outside Bluff a Mercedes had been totaled in a broad valley of pastures. Not a tree in sight. There was no sign of what he had hit with the front end. I stopped to ask, if the driver needed help.

"No, the tow truck is coming." He was a middle aged man with a cowboy hat.

"Good luck,"wished Slim. We were on the clock.

A half-mile down the road Slim asked, "How you think that happened?"

"Certainly not another by hitting another car, so I'm guessing driver error." Nothing else made any sense.

"It's not like he ran into a tree. Please try not to do the same."

Slim loved her Lark, although not as much as Cobb.

"You got it." I hadn't had an accident in over ten years.

And that had been in Paris. Slim had heard about it and said, "You saved some young girl from an aggressive man at Le Palace. You punched him. He and his friends were outside on Rue Montmatre. A designer friend of yours drove you away in a BMW. At a very slow speed. You asked him to go fasterd. He drove slow. But right to the elysees. The White House of France."

"Butz saved me from a beating. They were mafia from the Sentier."

We tol tories of our youth. Slim about her childhood in Hawaii. Mine was in New England. We probably both wanted to trade those years to each other.

Before noon we stopped at the Ananazi cliffside ruins. Six hundred years ago this site had supported over two thousand inhabitants, but the city had been abandoned a century before Coronado's expedition. Now there were only tourists.

"Where they all go?"

"No one knows. There are no native legends about the tribe. Modern historian theorize that there was a long drought and the people migrated to a river."

After an hour we were ready to go and Slim wanted to drive.

"I'm hearing something in the engine."

"I don't hear a thing."

"It's not your car.

Heading into the Rockies it became more obvious something was wrong with the Hawk's carburetor. A mechanic fixed it in Durango. Slim called Cobb. They spoke on the phone for a long time.

"I wish we were on the highway."

"We'll be on one as soon as we're out of the mountains."

"Tomorrow?"

"Yes."

My trip around the world was nearing its end after circumnavigating the Earth. My great-grandaunt Bert had done it as a child of eight on a whaling ship. It had take her father two years. So far OI had been gone only six months. Only another 1900 miles to go.

Slim found a mechanic who had a carborator for a Studebaker. A miracle. We walked to a nearby hotel on the main street. The evening air reminded me of John Denver's ROCKY MOUNTAIN HIGH. I couldn't remember the words. the night in Durango.

The next day we crossed the Continental Divide. Rivers flowed to the Atlantic from here. We passed old mines. I thought about swimming in a crystal clear mountain stream, but a sign warned of toxic chemicals from the mine tailings.

We passed through Telluride, a city on the Roof of America.

Mining had been its life blood.

Now the quaint town had struck gold with tourists.

We wewren't them and kept going.

We reached I-80 outside of Vail. Slim was ready to make time and we were in the Great Plains within the hour. Everything from here on in was downhill.

People honked at us. They loved seeing the Studebaker. We waved back.

Slim's foot remained heavy on the accelerator.

"No stops."

"What about food and gas?"

"That's all we need." Slim was living strictly on love.

I fought to take the back roads.

Slim was having none of it.

"You want to see more of the country? Hitchhike."

"I've done it before."

"You want to do it today?"

"No."

I wanted to be in New York too.

We listened to radio and she asked about my trip to the Orient. I told her about London, Paris, Nepal, Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Bali.

"All around the world." I took a photo of a drive-in. No one went to them anymore.

"My fourth time."

"You think you will ever settle down?"

"I guess this is just my way of settling down."

"The Wanderer?"

"I guess so."

"You know women only love drifters in the movies."

"I know that too well and women in New York only want someone rich and there's nothing wrong with that."

"So you're wandering the world to find love?"

"I haven't even thought about it." Loneliness was a friend, but not a good friend.

We drove in silence. Truck stops were the only civilization off the Interstates.

Long-distance trucks filled the paring lot. The kings of the road in the dinrer were exhausted by their long hauls. They drank black coffee in a stupor.

We crossed the Mississippi and dipped our feet in the Father of All Waters for good luck.

In South Bend, Indiana Slim mentioned a detour to the Studebaker Museum.

I was a little angry at her. My lack of love was my story. I convinced her to skip the museum and instead we swam in Lake Michigan.

The Ojibwa considered Mishigami as the great water. They had no word for the ocean.

We had no reason to stop in Detroit and continued across Ontario to Niagara Falls.

The Studebaker's front tire developed a slow leak. We stopped at a gas station and the mechanic told us to wait in the diner. Slim entered first.

The patrons had never seen someone as tall as her and their eyes followed her every steps of her flip-flops slapping against the floor on her way to the Ladies room. We slept that night in a hotel on the Canadian side of the Falls.

Twin beds.

New York lay across the river. We had run out of states.

"Sorry about what I said about you're not being lovable."

"I'm sorry we didn't stop at the museum."

"One day you will fall in love."

"And I'm glad you are in love. Better one of us than neither of us."

"We wouldn't be here, if I wasn't."

"Thanks."

The Lark had admirably performed its job.

By noon we crossed the Catskills.

New York was less than one hundred miles away.

We arrived in Soho at sunset.

I retrieved my bag from the trunk.

"Happy?"

"I will be soon."

Cobb met us at the restaurant Lucky Strike. He took one look at me and figured the worst. He was wrong. Slim and I were just friends.

I thanked Slim for the ride and left the restaurant for my apartment on East Tenth Street.

My key turned the lock.

I sat in  my living room and shuffled through six months of mail.

None

of it was important and I turned on the TV. I was alone, but sometimes this apartment was home and tonight was one of them.

Even if the road seemed more home for a drifter without love.